![]() “Eat a Peach” is a timely read on several levels. (On the other hand, restaurants attempting to replicate others’ singular triumphs, including the endless Changian pork belly bao rip-offs, rarely electrified.) Chang’s success helped push our dining culture - from the vantages of both liberated cooks and fervent diners - to redefine notions of excellence. In nearly 20 years of reviewing restaurants, my most thrilling meals have come from chefs serving dishes that reflect who they really are, whether it’s the food of their heritage or an unusually astute and respectful melding of cuisines. ![]() We threw out anything that smelled of fear, and started shooting from the hip.” ![]() At the last possible moment, we erased the line between what we thought we should be serving our customers and what we wanted to cook for our friends. “We were at our best when we were feeding these people who really knew their s-,” he writes. Noodle Bar was new and nearly bankrupt Chang was struggling to hone a perspective for the menu. The motive behind his iconoclasm might best be summarized on page 58 of his memoir “Eat a Peach,” written with Gabe Ulla and published this month. You may occasionally receive promotional content from the Los Angeles Times. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |